Surfing is my passion and drives a significant portion of my life. It drives me in my day-to-day. My daily ritual is to wake up, check the surf report, and, if conditions are good, get out there. Life is short and you gotta make time to do the things you love. Surfing also drives my travel plans, and there are few pursuits that complement each other so perfectly. Often the best surf spots are in more remote destinations, so a lot of my travels take me off the typical tourist trail in search of the perfect waves. I feel that this allows me to be more immersed in the cultures of the countries I am exploring.

On a more intangible level, surfing drives me not only because of the act itself, but because it allows me to feel more in tune with my surroundings. Every time you surf, the conditions and waves are different, even at the same spot. Unlike many other hobbies and pursuits, the equipment is simple - just a surfboard. You don’t need tons of gear, and there aren’t any barriers between you and the environment. Surfing is more of a cooperation with nature rather than an attempt to control it.